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Tuesday Tidbit (on Wednesday): The wonders of shutter speed (and a cool trick!)

I think daylight savings must have messed with my brain in addition to my clocks because I swore it was Tuesday today. Umm…not so much.

ANYway, today’s (Wednesday) tidbit is about shutter speed and, as promised, I’ll show you a cool trick at the end.

First, an explanation on shutter speed. It’s simple, really–the longer the shutter of a camera is open, the more light comes in. Therefore, if we have a dark environment (not much light), we leave the shutter open a while to allow enough light into the camera to register on the film/sensor; if we have a ton of light (a bright sunny day for example), we only need to leave the shutter open a brief period to properly expose the image. When we add more light, the camera’s shutter speed can be faster and we can, in essence, freeze a moment in time. Shutter only open for 1/2000 of a second? You’ve captured 1/2000 of a second in time.

But the longer you have the shutter open, the more opportunity there is for having “camera shake” (blurry pictures). This is because if your camera is moving from you holding it, the camera is going to record all that movement while the shutter is open–even if you’re holding the camera as still as you possibly can, the camera will still register movement from you breathing, for example. For the point and shoot camera users out there, this is why your flash will suddenly pop up as you’re getting ready to take the picture–it’s the machine’s way of telling you that you need to add some light to the environment to avoid camera blur.

Now, in some cases, photographers want some motion blur. Usually we don’t want blur from camera shake but rather blur from movement; this is called “dragging the shutter”. It’s a great way of conveying movement and energy to the viewer, as in the example of a photo I took a few years ago of an amazingly energetic swing-dancing duo:

dsc 0059 copy web1 Tuesday Tidbit (on Wednesday): The wonders of shutter speed (and a cool trick!)

In this case, I wanted to have the feel of a bustling dance floor but also capture a moment in time while the dancers did their thing. This was achieved by keeping the shutter open awhile (to get the motion blur of the dancers behind the duo) and then flashing a burst of light (in this case, the flash on the camera) a split second to freeze the duo in that last moment before the shutter closed. One thing to note, “dragging the shutter” requires a camera that has the capabilities to pop the flash just before the shutter closes, called “rear (or second) curtain sync”. If you don’t have that on your camera, you can also experiment with leaving the shutter open and then flicking the lights on or shining a flashlight on your subject just before the shutter closes…it’ll just take several tries to get it right.

So now that you know all this, you can join the Broadway stars and see your name in lights. It takes a tripod (to avoide camera blur), a dark environment (inside or outside is fine) a light source (in the example below, we actually used my husband’s Treo Touchscreen phone!!), someone to press the shutter of the camera, some experimenting and a little (ok, a lot) of practice in writing your name in the air…backwards. The trick is to start writing your name right when the shutter opens and be finished by the time the shutter closes. By popping the camera’s flash at the very end, you can illuminate the “writer” as well. The result? Pure awesomeness. Have fun!

flashlighttrick Tuesday Tidbit (on Wednesday): The wonders of shutter speed (and a cool trick!)

3 Comments

  1. [...] shutter speed, aka how to write your name in lights? If you didn’t read it, check it out here. Well, I recently came across a site that has some AMAZING examples of things you can do with a [...]

  2. [...] image was achieved by dragging the shutter (explanation and examples here) to properly expose the large room and then popping the flash at the end to freeze the moment. [...]

  3. [...] control over the final image by manipulating the aperture and shutter speed (see my posts about aperture and shutter speed and how they work [...]

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Tuesday Tidbit: Depth of Field

Ok, so remember last week we talked about how aperture and shutter speed worked together to ensure the correct exposure of an image? If not, go back and read it here.

So, why would you care at all about aperture anyway? Or shutter speed for that matter? We’ll start with why you’d care about aperture. Take for example, the photo below. See the effect of having just a bit in focus and the rest blurry? This is achieved when you have your aperture wide open (a large hole as opposed to a small hole). You might heat photographers saying they’re shooting “wide open”…this is what they mean, shooting with a wide aperture, resulting in some parts of the photo being out of focus. To make sure that everything is in focus instead (say you’re shooting a landscape and want both the foreground and the background to be in focus), you’d shoot with a narrower aperture (smaller hole).

anna 09 copy web1 Tuesday Tidbit: Depth of Field

Aperture is referred to as an “F-stop”. The confusing part is that a lower F-Stop is a wider hole. In other words, a larger hole equals a smaller number. So increased depth of field (the blurry part) is a result of a lower aperture, increased sharpness across the photo is a result of a higher aperture. With me so far?

Stay tuned for next week’s Tuesday Tidbit when we talk about why you should care about shutter speed (aka how to manipulate photos via shutter speed). And I’ll show you a cool trick you can try at home! Seriously, it’s my favoritest camera trick ever. :)

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Are you ready for some cuteness??

Seriously, Kayden might be the cutest baby I’ve ever seen. I had the privilege of doing a shoot of him back in December when I was in Wisconsin for the holidays–it was my way of saying thank you to two of my favorite clients, Kristi and Jeremy, for referring Vantage to their friends. Kayden was such a wonderful little person to hang out with for an hour–I can’t wait to see him grow into a wonderful big person! Here are some of my favorite pics from the session as well as the slideshow I created for Kristi and Jeremy:

kayden 13 Are you ready for some cuteness??kayden 22 Are you ready for some cuteness??kayden 291 Are you ready for some cuteness??kayden 30 Are you ready for some cuteness??kayden 311 Are you ready for some cuteness??

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Tuesday Tidbit: Understanding Aperture and Shutter Speed

Every Tuesday, I bring you a tidbit of information to help you improve your images, learn more about the technical aspects of photography and generally just “talk shop”. This week is about understanding Aperture and Shutter Speed.

Images are created by recording the amount of light that falls onto the film or the digital sensor of a camera. The lens of the camera gathers the light reflected off a subject, converges it at a point on the focal plane, inverts the image and the light travels to the sensor of the camera, creating an exposed image of the subject.

focal point Tuesday Tidbit: Understanding Aperture and Shutter Speed

Aperture: A camera lens has not only glass we see at the front of the lens but also an aperture that narrows and widens to control how much light enters the lens. The aperture is like the iris of our eyes–a bigger aperture lets more light in, a smaller aperture lets less light in.

aperture1 Tuesday Tidbit: Understanding Aperture and Shutter Speed

The shutter: Look at the image above and imagine there is a door immediately in front of the camera sensor. By controlling how long that door (the shutter) is open, we can control the amount of time the film/sensor is exposed to the light coming through the aperture. Like a door of a house being open to the outside world, the longer the shutter is open, the more light is cast on the film/sensor.

How Aperture and Shutter Speed work together: The best way I’ve ever heard this described is in John Hedgecoe’s The New Manual of Photography. Hedgecoe writes: “The exposure process is like filling a glass with water. The glass is the film (or digital chip) and the water is the light. To fill the glass (expose the film), the faucet is turned on partially or fully (the aperture)–the amount affects how long the tap needs to run before teh glass is full (the shutter speed).” In other words, a wider aperture requires a shorter shutter speed to correctly expose the image in the camera; a narrower aperture requires a longer shutter speed.

Next Tuesday, we’ll talk about the affects you can get from having a wider or narrower aperture.

3 Comments

  1. [...] light….which means, all other things equal like aperture and shutter speed (definitions found here), you need half the light at ISO 400 that you do at ISO 200 to create a properly exposed image. The [...]

  2. [...] The other major factor with SLRs is the amount of control a user has. Yes, a user can just throw the camera into automatic mode (which essentially just creates a really fancy looking point and shoot) but a user also has an huge amount of creative control over the final image by manipulating the aperture and shutter speed (see my posts about aperture and shutter speed and how they work together). [...]

  3. [...] Ok, so remember last week we talked about how aperture and shutter speed worked together to ensure the correct exposure of an image? If not, go back and read it here. [...]

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Tuesday Tidbit: How to look your best in photos

So many of us hate to get our picture taken, often because we think we look bad in photos. But it doesn’t have to be that way! Here are some tips for looking your best in photos the next time someone tells you to “Say Cheese!”:

  • Get your winks the night before. A good night sleep will help you look bright eyed and refreshed, minimizing dark under-eye circles and red eyes.
  • In general, don’t aim your face directly into the camera. By turning your head slightly away from the camera (while still looking into the lens), your face will have a more flattering shape.
  • When faced with the camera, people have a tendency to give a big smile and jut out their chin. To avoid the “all chin” look, keep your neck stretched out slightly to avoid a double chin but tilt your chin down just a bit. Ladies, you can get away with doing this even more so.
  • Forced smiles are never pretty and a big giveaway is a smile on your mouth but not in your eyes. When you “smile with your eyes” (a phrase that anyone who’s worked with me has heard before), your whole face moves, including your cheeks, your forehead and your eyes. Next time you’re smiling naturally, notice the changes in your face and try to recreate that.
  • Another way to prevent a forced smile is to think of something that makes you happy or chuckle. Sincere, natural smiles make our eyes shine brighter and our face light up, something that can’t be faked.
  • For full-body shots, angle your body three-quarters towards the camera, with one shoulder closer to the lens than the other. Ladies, put one foot slightly in front of the other and turn them out a little, with your weight on the back foot. Guys, your stance can be a bit wider and more centered over both feet; feel free to casually put your hand in your pants pocket. And, like our parents always told us, stand up straight!
  • If you’re at all concerned about your weight in photos, here’s an interesting rule: If you’re wider than you are thicker, turn your body more to the side. If you’re thicker than you are wider, aim your body towards the camera, turned just slightly away. Also, make sure not to hold your arms directly against your sides as that makes anyone’s arms, no matter how large or small, appear larger.
  • Lastly, if you’re posing with someone else, tilt your heads towards each other a little to create a feeling of closeness.
pixel Tuesday Tidbit: How to look your best in photos

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